Please read carefully !

 

 

These and all materials provided by Technology Transplant Inc., for educational and instructional purposes should be considered as reference materials only.

By no means is any text or procedures herein to be considered the recommendation of the respective hardware manufacturers. As stated by their included documentation originally provided with the device.

All procedures demonstrated here are that of research taken for assistance in field repairs.

In which perspective taken, is for that of the "layperson" whom may have little to no electronics background experience. And may or may not have made any sort of such repairs and wishes to do so.

By agreeing to the terms of viewing these documents, you consent that you are capable of understanding operations performed are at your own risks and any damages, injuries or occurrences due to your repair are that of your own responsibility and not that of Technology Transplant.

 

 

 

 

 

First, always remove the power source before working on any electrical device!

 

 

 

 

 

Take off all slider caps.

While working they can be cleaned by allowing to set in hot soapy water during the repair.

 

 

 

 

 

Unscrew left and right side panels.

To open the front you only need to remove the upper two screws located on the side panels.

 

It is a good idea to keep similar screws in

labeled containers so they don't get lost!

 

 

 

 

 

Unscrew the panel board.

Place these screws into a separate container.

 

 

 

 

 

The panel boards also have some plastic wire harnesses.

These are easily cut with nail clippers without harming

the wires.  Many other tools (especially knives) can cut the wires.

 

It is also necessary to cut some of the string that is shown here

where multiple cables are tied together in order to remove the panel board.

This will allow for connectors to be pulled from other boards such as the CPU board.

 

 

 

 

 

Some of the wires go from the control panel (top where hands are located)

and are connected to the main cpu board (bottom left above keys).

 

Use a marker and number each connector

(both the connector and host) so they may be easily replaced.

 

All are keyed, but some are the same size.

By doing this correct reconnection is guaranteed.

 

Once cleared, the control board can be pulled out.

Using both hands at the bottom ends and pulling downwards (towards

the inside bottom of the metal housing.)  Then pull slowly out

at an angle will release it from the chassis.

 

 

 

 

 

This shows the part of the PCB that slides into the chassis at the top.

All PCB notches as shown above, must be pulled out before the board will exit.

Slide the board downwards using hand placement in photo previous to this.

Then pull out after top notches are clear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sliders have black felt on top to keep dust out.

 

 

 

Due to age of the materials when you take it off for replacement,

will likely tear apart.  New ones can easily be reconstructed if you

like by using strips of felt cloth or even paper.

 

 

 

 

Here is a close-up of sliders with felt removed.

After many years dirt and particles will wear down the insides.

 

 

 

To remove and replace the sliders you will need:

Solder iron and solder.  Do not use a high wattage iron (more than 30 watts).

15-25 is recommended for nearly any repairs on electronics equipment.

 

Also, a solder sucker to "suck up excess solder".

Or another very fast and efficient method is small cans of compressed air.

This however can be messy and care should be taken to clean "solder spray"

very well after repairs are made.

This can be done with alcohol and cotton swabs.

 

 

 

 

After heating the solder iron for about 5 minutes you may remove

the old part.  Do not rush and hold the iron at an angle as shown.

It should only take about 3 seconds to heat each of the various parts feet.

Timing is a learnt skill in your repairs!

 

After you see the solder begin to bubble you may then either suck up the solder

with the solder sucker tool shown above.

 

Or use compressed air to blow it out (the opposite side of the board) holding

the spout where the air is pushed out at a straight angle of 180 degrees.

If you use compressed air please be very careful that solder particles to not spray

onto you or in your eyes.  Protective eyewear is recommended if you use compressed

air tools.

 

 

 

Some notes in this and similar repairs.

 

1)  Takes 30 seconds pauses between each leg or post to let the iron go back to it's maximum and best potential heating stage.

 

2)  Never let the iron set in one spot too long.  3-5 seconds is the maximum you should before letting the part recool.

 

 

3)  After extraction of the old parts, it is recommended to clean the area where it was previously with isopropyl alcohol and cotton swaps.

Especially where the posts of the part where previously to eliminate excess "flux" and residues.

 

4)  Then place your new part in and prepare to solder it in.

 

5)  When you solder it in be sure to hold the iron at the angle shown in previous photograph above.

Heat the solder first and let it "roll" onto the tip of the iron BEFORE you actually place the tip on the parts leg.

Then for about 2-3 seconds let the solder forms into the PCB hole and remove the tip.

Do not cool the solder too fast let it cool itself without aid of fanning etc.

A nice "solder joint" should be bright and silvery, not grey and dull.

 

If it appears grey and dull re-perform the area.

 

 

After replacement you can refer to the steps above for re-assembling the unit.